Now from the front of the work slide the needle through both ‘arms’ of the stitch above, in the same direction as you are working in across the row (I always work the first row from right to left)…Īnd lastly take the needle back through the ‘V’ point of the stitch that you are duplicating from the front of the work to the back…Īt this point check the tension of the duplicate yarn. Thread your needle loaded with the length of yarn you’ve chosen for the design through your knitted piece from the back to the front by coming through the ‘V’ point of the first knit stitch that you want to duplicate… I prefer to start from the bottom right corner but doesn’t matter if you start from the left or right of a design, so you choose what you’re most comfortable with.įind the centre point of your chart and mark the centre point of your knitting – this will make it easier to count out stitches so that you begin your design in the right place (here I’ve used a piece of blue thread to mark the centre stitch).
I’ve found it much harder to get a neat finish if I am working downwards and threading the yarn behind an already duplicated stitch above – it never sits as neatly so I recommend always starting at the bottom of the design and working upwards. Start from a bottom corner of your chosen design. Tip: if you are using a yarn that snaps easily (like a single ply yarn) then you may want to work with shorter lengths and join in new lengths regularly at the back of the work – I’ve found that the repeated sewing through the stitches can wear a weak yarn and cause it to snap. It’s good to choose a colour that contrasts well with the background colour of your knitted piece and the weight of the yarn needs to be at least equal to the weight used in the background knitting. Thread the needle with a long length of your chosen yarn. It is better to use a slightly blunt-nosed needle as a sharp needle can split stitches in the knitted fabric and make the whole process a bit more difficult. You will find it easier to work duplicate stitch neatly if your piece of knitting that lies flat so if you’re unsure then best block first. To block or not to block: It’s entirely up to you. For instance in this little heart below I’ve added half a stitch at either end of the top row in order to smooth the curve of the top of the heart. Using duplicate stitch allows you to cheat a little by duplicate stitching just half a stitch.It is not recommended to use a yarn that is thinner (or substantially thicker) than the yarn used for the knitting. For instance you could use a fluffy yarn to work an animal design. Using different yarn types: When using duplicate stitch you can mix different yarn types which might cause problems with tension if used during intarsia knitting.If you’ve knitted in intarsia the whole thing would have to be unpicked. You can also unpick to any point if you realise you’ve made a mistake – just gently undo half a stitch at a time without pulling too hard so as not to pucker the earlier stitches. Unpicking: With duplicate stitch it’s easy to unpick the design completely if you don’t like it any more and your knitted piece is still intact once you remove the design.
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